Have you ever thought of taking your climbing ability to the test then Baruntse Mountain is best fit for you, where the success rate is very low due to its technical difficulty, unpredictable weather condition and trails that are way slippery that makes hard for a first time climbers. If you don’t have climbing experience then this trek or location is not fit for you.
Baruntse Mountain lies in the Khumbu region of eastern Nepal. With Baruntse Mountain this region is bounded by four best peaks they are Hunku Glacier at the south, Imja glacier facing northwest side, and Barun glacier at the east side. It is one of the best peaks according to lots climbers. This mountain offers you the height of 7129 meter. It is a dream peak for the climbers where you climb at the highest peak of 7000 meter.
Baruntse Mountain was first climbed by New Zealand citizens Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow led by Edmund Hillary in May 30, 1954. You can take some experience and their thought about their journey from some articles and podcast to know more about the Baruntse peak. It will be helpful for you before starting your journey.
It is 8 day hike from Lukla village. You will ascend from Mera Peak to acclimatize before moving to the Baruntse Base Camp. The route to the peak is mixed of steep rocky scree, you have to cross the glaciers with crevasses that’s why trek to this peak is difficult in comparison to other peaks.
Get ready to soak into the beauty that lies on the Baruntse mountain where you will face different kind of technical challenges, you might have high chances to get altitude sickness so be ready and fully prepared while considering this peak as your next trek. Be ready with your gears and get ready to take some challenges. Make your journey filled with some spices.
Technical difficulty vs. altitude challenge
Technical difficulty
Mostly the snow and ice climb will be tiring and difficult because of the temperature. The steep snow slopes is slanted and inclined angles at 45 degrees to 50 degrees, these snow slopes have exposed ridges and can be constant threat of crevasses. This peak is brutal because of the high altitude actually meant for high altitude mounteering. Most of the routes is very difficult that climbers have to navigate glaciered terrains and roped together with other fellow climbers. Ropes are installed along the key sections practically at the steep of the headwalls and knife edge ridge which will lead you to the summit. These part of the trek demands your rope handling skills, jumar use and your efficiency while moving through icy surface. This trek will really check your ability.
Altitude Challenges
Baruntse Expedition is technically challenging but it is manageable with basic experience, while altitude problem is one of the most challenging part of this peak due to its dramatic weather conditions and height. This trek will put your altitude tolerance to a test. Above the height of 6000 meters you will feel the thin air, making your every step dramatically slow and difficult. You might need to carry oxygen tank but it’s nearly impossible to climb with heavy weight on your back. It will take you at least 12 to 15 hours just to reach to the camp submit. Not only that the temperature at the height of 6000 meters is bone chilling. You will feel sudden storms. Success rate of this peak is very less, this will test your mountaineering ability and mental toughness.
Physical and mental fitness requirements
Physical requirement
Building your physical endurance is one of the most important part of trekking. If you are considering Baruntse peak you should also consider building your mind and training your body. Climbers should be physically fit it is believed that a climber should have aerobic base with the high endurance and strength. Train yourself physically by doing cardiovascular activities, long distance running, cycling and little bit of hiking in slightly high treks with heavy backpacks. You should practically focus on your legs, core and upper body as your grips needs to be strong. Strong legs are important for long glacier walks. Strong arms and core will help you to walk through the ropes and be safe in the challenging terrains. You should take inspiration from other climbers and take 9 to 10 months of training before actually trekking in Baruntse peak, as most experienced trekkers do so. Strength training will help you learn to lift up the weight of 12 to 13 kg on the high and slippery routes.
Mental requirement
Physical fitness is not always enough for high altitude mountaineering, mental fitness is also very important as it helps to stay calm in any kind of pressure, push through situation, and to help you learn about the morale that stay with in you. High altitude climbing is itself a psychological test. During the long days of climbing, without any internet connection and far away from human world it will be exhausting for you but mental awareness will help you learn how to go through all of this trauma.
Experience needed (previous high-altitude or alpine climbs)
You should be experienced to attempt climbing in Baruntse, this peak is not for the first time climbers or those who cannot tolerate high altitudes. Climber should have experience on climbing the height of at least one or two peaks above 6000 meters. Some of the peak you, might consider are Mera Peak, Island peak, or Lobuche peak. This experience will build up your skills and confidence to climb Baruntse. You have to be experienced of how to use fixed ropes and ice axe, you will face a lot of glaciers on Baruntse routes.
Climbers must be comfortable to use axe, jumaring and walking through the ropes that bind climbers together. There are lots of skills you might need to master. You should built the ability to manage your altitude sickness, example recognizing your symptoms and responding to your symptoms swiftly. You should take mountaineering courses that covers some lessons like crevasse rescue, rope technique and high altitude climbing. Baruntse is one of the unique Himalayas that demands your humanity and preparations.
Gear and training tips
Gears
At the height of 7000 meters you should know you need high quality and specialized equipment that are designed specifically for high altitude climbing. You should wear the foot wear that can hold grips easily some of the examples of boots are La Sportiva G2 SM or Scarpa Phanthom 6000 these boots are also known as double boots. These type of boots will help to climb at the temperature of -30 degree Celsius. You need layered clothing, consider dressing yourself in proper layered way. Wear moisture waking layer as your base and wear waterproof as your outer sell. High quality down jacket is not necessary.
You will need climbing harness, jumar, figure eight devices, locking carabineers, helmet, and a mountaineering ice axe, personal camping gears like sleeping bag, glasses to help you against snow blindness and lastly trekking poles.
Training tips
Train yourself to handle the gears and uses of axe. Learn to move swiftly and quickly. Learn to do hiking with heavy back packs, waking on mountaineering boots on snowy steeps, and sleeping in cold air in clear skies.
Comparison with peaks like Mera, Island Peak, and Himlung
Mera peak
Mera peak is at the height of 6476 meters from the sea level. It is a trekking peak which involves basic glacier travel with a little bit technical climbing. This peak is ideal for those who wants to gain high altitude experience. This peak is considered as excellent starting point.
Island Peak
It is at the height of 6189 meters above the sea level. Often a direct connection to stepping onto the stone. This peak will help you learn about the fixed rope climbing on steep snow and ice face, giving experience with jumaring and abseiling. This peak trek is comparatively shorter and lower in altitude. Climbers can cope up with longer day summit and altitude conditions in Baruntse peak.
Himlung Himal
Himlung Himal is at the height of 7126 meters and closest to the height of Baruntse. Himlung is slightly easier than Baruntse peak technically. In Himlung Himal you will see less exposed ridges and the summit days are shorter. Weather pattern are stable and predictable.
Here are some side by side comparisons
Mera Peak, Altitude it offers is 6476 meter, it is technically easy, and altitude challenge is moderate, much easier than Baruntse.
Island Peak, Altitude it offers is 6189 meters, its technical difficulty is moderate, altitude challenge is also moderate, and it is good for preparation and have less altitude compared to Baruntse.
Himlung Himal offers the height of 7126 meters with its moderate technical difficulty altitude is challenging and high it is slightly and technically easier.
Baruntse offers the height of 7129 meters where the technical difficulty is high or moderate depends on trekkers. Altitude challenge is high compared to all the above treks, it is considered as most challenging among all the peaks mentioned above.
Conclusion
Success on the Mera peak and Island peak is very high and strong indicator of readiness. Climbers should not take Baruntse easy, challenges are often underestimated. You might not know what will be offered at what place so always be mentally prepared. Baruntse will test your mountaineering skills as the temperature, altitude and routes are very challenging. You will get the proper adventure experience. Remember to always be fully prepared take 9 to 8 moths training program to boost up your confidence.
Baruntse Mountain lies in the Khumbu region of eastern Nepal. Baruntse peak is brutal because of the high altitude actually meant for high altitude mounteering. Most of the routes is very difficult that climbers have to navigate glaciered terrains and roped together with other fellow climbers. Ropes are installed along the key sections practically at the steep of the headwalls and knife edge ridge which will lead you to the summit.
Baruntse trek is achievable but it is not easy. The success rate of this peak is very low compared to other trekking. You should be experienced to attempt climbing in Baruntse, this peak is not for the first time climbers or those who cannot tolerate high altitudes. Climber should have experience on climbing the height of at least one or two peaks above 6000 meters. High altitude climbing is itself a psychological test. During the long days of climbing, without any internet connection and far away from human world it will be exhausting for you but mental awareness will help you learn how to go through all of this trauma.
Climbers should be physically fit it is believed that a climber should have aerobic base with the high endurance and strength. Train yourself physically by doing cardiovascular activities, long distance running, cycling and little bit of hiking in slightly high treks with heavy backpacks. You should practically focus on your legs, core and upper body as your grips needs to be strong.
You might need quality climbing harness, jumar, figure eight devices, locking carabineers, helmet, and a mountaineering ice axe, personal camping gears like sleeping bag, glasses to help you against snow blindness and lastly trekking poles to make your hiking successful.
Always remember challenges makes people confident in themselves, always be prepared, be your own safety guide, pack things cleverly and be physically and mentally fit. This dream of yours is achievable, it’s not impossible. This trek is technically challenging but it is manageable with basic experience, while altitude problem is one of the most challenging part of this peak due to its dramatic weather conditions and height. This trek will put your altitude tolerance to a test.
Take a step forward, close your eyes develop a feeling of courage be ready to take your steps at the peak of Baruntse your every move counts.